The Ultimate Chocolate Ice Cream for the Most Discerning Chocoholic (w/Brandied Cherries)

I’m not a huge Chocoholic, but when I want to eat chocolate it’d better be damn good. I like my ice cream rich in flavour, all natural and delicious. I love any recipe by the ice cream guru himself, David Leibovitz, and this will surely win over any discerning Chocoholic or will convert non-believers. Not too sugary sweet, very rich… A crowd pleaser.

As for the brandied cherries, first time I had them was at the now closed The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe. I used the recipe below, and kept them in the fridge to marinate for a year. I was initially going to chop them up, but was afraid that the syrup would change the flavour of the ice cream. However, if you freeze the cherries, chop them up and add them that would probably work, but then again alcohol doesn’t freeze well.

I’m trying a new method here, not just photos, but tips and tricks before the actual recipe.

I bought a chunk of Callebaut bittersweet chocolate, mostly because most chocolate recipes require bittersweet and not semisweet and so the chocolate can be used for other purposes. 5oz of chocolate doesn’t seem like much (0.142kg) but that’s all you need. I tried to be cool by shaving chocolate which took a lot of effort, so take a shortcut by using chocolate chips or bars. Then again, it probably won’t melt as fast.

When cooking the egg mixture, be sure to work fast and be vigilant or else you’ll end up with scrambled eggs. There will always be a little, hence the straining, but it only takes a few seconds for the whole thing to turn into a wet egg mess. When pouring the milk into the egg yolk, whisk fast and furious. When cooking the egg mixture, watch it carefully – once it coats the back of the wooden spoon, remove it from heat, and immediately strain into the chocolate, because the eggs will keep cooking.

I tend to like to adjust the flavour as it freezes – if it’s too bitter, add tablespoons of condensed milk till it’s just right. If it’s not creamy enough, I like to add coffee cream The ice cream is so rich and dense, once it hardens it’s like a fudgesicle. For frozen treats, pour and freeze in a popsicle mold. Add almonds or chunks of skor bars to up it, or keep it pure.

Chocolate Ice Cream
from David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop

2 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
5 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 cup whole milk
¾ cup granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
5 large egg yolks
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Coffee cream, condensed milk

Warm 1 cup of the cream with the cocoa powder in a medium saucepan, whisking to thoroughly blend the cocoa. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer at a very low boil for 30 seconds, whisking constantly. Remove from the heat and add the chopped chocolate, stirring until smooth. Then stir in the remaining 1 cup cream. Pour the mixture into a large bowl, scraping the saucepan as thoroughly as possible, and set a mesh strainer on top of the bowl.

Warm the milk, sugar, and salt in the same saucepan. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolk. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.

Stir the mixture constantly over the medium heat with a heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula (170°F on an instant-read thermometer). Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the chocolate mixture until smooth, then stir in the vanilla. Stir until cool over an ice bath.

Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. (If the cold mixture is too thick to pour into your machine, whisk it vigorously to thin it out.)

A cherry pitter from Ming Wo is your best friend – makes the pitting fast, easy and mess free. Always boil the jar and lid you’re going to use.

Lu’s Brandied Cherries
Homemade brandied cherries are a simple and delicious way to dress up your cocktails.

1 lb. sweet cherries, pitted
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
2 tsp. lemon juice, fresh-squeezed
1 stick cinnamon
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup brandy
Tools: cherry pitter, saucepan, ladle, jars with lids

Wash and pit the cherries. In a saucepan, combine all ingredients except the cherries and brandy and bring to a rolling boil. When the liquid begins to boil, reduce the heat to medium. Add the cherries and simmer for 5–7 minutes. Remove from heat, add the brandy and let cool. Transfer the cherries into clean jars and refrigerate, uncovered until cherries are cool to touch. Cover tightly and refrigerate for up to two weeks.

I <3 Niçoise

The Nicoise Salad is a fave of mine – I can eat it for days on end because not only is it delicious, filling without the guilt and colourful, but it adheres to the Mediterranean diet that is low-fat (or of healthy fat), a source of high quality, lean protein, and even supplies Omega-3 fatty acids. A bit of background here, it’s a specialty of the Côte d’Azur and named for the city of Nice.

Best place in Vancouver (I welcome your suggestions) and where I got hooked on it: Les Faux Bourgeois

This is my staple recipe, but feel free to sub tuna in olive oil with seared Ahi, or grilled chicken,  or cherry tomatoes for the larger variety. Haricot verts can be found in the frozen section at the Gourmet Warehouse and maybe Whole Foods.  There’s also a pasta version, if you want to serve it potluck style.

Bon Appétit!

Creamy Earl Grey Tea Ice Cream

Ever since I got my Cuisinart ice cream maker last year (actual model: Cuisinart Pure Indulgence™ 2 Qt. Frozen Yogurt-Sorbet & Ice Cream Maker) I’ve been making frozen goodness non stop just for the fun of making it and to give it away (sharing is caring, always remember that). I have to say through tests, trials and tribulations, the most popular and requested flavour is the Creamy Earl Grey. I’ll definitely be making it again this year (requests are already coming in), and I hope you like the recipe too.

I took the basic Vanilla Ice Cream recipe from David Lebovitz‘s The Perfect Scoop (a must buy for any ice cream lover) and adapted it. The tricky thing about working with tea is the flavour infusion – of course the longer you infuse the more flavourful it is, but when working with tea, the longer you steep the more bitter it becomes. So this is not one of those “leave it in the ice cream maker until it becomes ice cream” kind of recipes, but you must sit by, watch it churn, taste and keep adding (you can’t subtract when it comes to food) till you get it right. Enjoy!

Biscotti

Recipes are not all the same — no, not to state the obvious, but some work, and some don’t. For example, I can quote a ton of people who can testify that the majority of Martha Stewart’s recipes don’t turn out right. If you want recipes that turn out most of the time, try Epicurean, Saveur or my go-to (especially for baking) Williams Sonoma.  The last time I made Orange Almond Biscotti – it was so hard it chipped the tooth of the person eating it. But armed with the right recipe, you’ll never have to make sure your loved ones have dental insurance in advance again.

What I love about these biscotti recipes from Williams Sonoma that they’re soft and crumbly enough that you don’t need to dip them in milk/tea/coffee and adapt as you will… enjoy!

Thanksgiving Recipes: Part 2 – Veggies

Thanksgiving seems to be one of the few occasions where veggies are tolerated or even welcomed as a reprieve from all the meat and starch. Glazed veggie or brussel sprouts are traditional, but it seems like not everyone likes brussel sprouts, probably because they’re boiled or steamed (oh so bland) or overcooked and emit that sulphurous stink.

The key to perfect brussel sprouts is to watch them closely while cooking. To prepare for steaming/boiling, remove outer old and wilted leaves, trim the stem and score an X in the stem.Boil or steam for 4-7 minutes until they turn a vibrant green, then quickly remove from heat and drain. Pick the smaller, tightly packed sprouts, and purchase as close to the use date as possible.

I hope you heart sprouts as much as I do after trying one of my favourite recipes below – Brussel Sprouts, Chestnut and Bacon Sauté. As for something sweet, a take on the traditional honey/brown sugar glazed carrots – Mirin Glazed Carrots

Perfect Summer Delights: Rhubarb Lavender Crumble

Saw a bunch of juicy, thick and crunchy rhubarb at the grocer the other day, and it reminded me of this delicious recipe that’s perfect for summer, family gathering, BBQs, potlucks, or just to share for 2. Love the tarty rhubarb, the sweet fragrant lavender aftertaste, and the crunchy crumble. Pair with vanilla,  strawberry  or homemade honey ice cream (recipe below).

NOTE: The more sugar the better! You can’t say that about most recipes, but this one is fool proof. Use white granulated with some packed brown or golden. You can’t go wrong because it needs to counter the tartness of the rhubarb.

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Rhubarb Lavender Crumble

9×13 pan of rhubarb crumble – serves 4-8

2 pounds fresh rhubarb, leaves removed and discarded
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup honey
Pinch salt
1/2 teaspoon dried lavender buds
1 batch of Basic Oat Crumble Topping for Fruit – Softer Version (below)
3/4 cup sliced and toasted almonds
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup brown sugar

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Prepare a 9×13 pan by greasing lightly with butter or with oil spray. Cut the rhubarb stalks into small pieces – about the size of your knuckle. They should be evenly sized. Toss with the sugar, honey, and salt. Rub the lavender between your hands, crushing it into the rhubarb. Stir everything and spread evenly in the baking pan.
2. Spread the crumble topping over the rhubarb. Melt the butter, toasted almonds, and brown sugar together in the microwave or in a small saucepan, and dot over the crumble topping.
3. Bake at 375°F for 40-45 minutes, or until the topping is lightly browned. Let cool for at least 15 minutes, then serve with whipped cream or strawberry ice cream.

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Basic Oat Crumble Topping for Fruit – Softer Version

tops a 9×13 pan

1 1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
Spices – cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger
Pinch of salt
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Nuts (optional)
Water or milk

Mix the dry ingredients. Stir in the melted butter. Add just enough water or milk so that the mix comes together in loose clumps – not too wet. Stir in the nuts, if using. Dot the fruit with the mixture evenly and bake at 375 for about 45 minutes.

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Honey Ice Cream

4 large egg yolks
2/3 cup pure honey
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 cups half-and-half
Optional infusions, inclusions* (add-ins) or swirls (see “Four Ways To Customize,” below)

*Infusions are flavors that are infused into the milk or cream; then the flavoring element (cinnamon stick, ginger, etc.) is removed. Inclusions is the industry term for what many of us call “mix-ins.” Of course, “inclusions” simply means “other things that are included” in the ice cream—nuts, chocolate chips, pieces of whatever.

1. Whisk together eggs, honey and salt in medium bowl; set aside. In a medium saucepan, bring half-and-half to a full simmer with any infusions. Remove from heat. If infusing, cover and let steep 2 hours; strain into another medium saucepan and bring to a simmer again.
2. Slowly add 1 cup of the simmering cream mix to the egg-honey mixture while whisking (to avoid scrambling the eggs); then return the egg and cream mixture to the saucepan.
3. Again bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until the custard thickens enough to coat a spoon and the thermometer reads 170°F to 175°F, about 4 minutes (do not boil).
4. Strain into a clean bowl and allow steam to escape before covering and chilling until cold (at least 3 hours and up to 1 day).
5. Process custard in ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s instructions; add soft add-in ingredients half way through freezing or chunky ingredients during the last 2 to 5 minutes.
6. Transfer to a bowl or tub, add any desired swirls and serve, or cover and freeze until firm—at least 3 hours and up to 3 days.

Four Ways To Customize Honey Ice Cream

1. Switch your dairy: Replace up to 1 cup of the half-and-half with heavy cream, plain yogurt, buttermilk or sour cream.
2. Infusions: Infuse the cream base with 1 to 2 tablespoons of your favorite herbs (such as lavender or mint), spices (crushed sticks or cloves), botanicals (grated citrus rind or chopped ginger root), a split and scraped vanilla bean or a few saffron threads.
3. Inclusions (Add-ins): Halfway through the churning process, add up to 1 cup of fruit orvegetable purée, soft cream cheese or blue cheese. Or, during the last 2 to 5 minutes, add 1/2 cup to 1 cup of juicy berries, chunks of ripe fruit, nuts, bits of pure honeycomb or chocolate pieces.
4. Swirls: Immediately after churning and before serving (or packing in freezer tubs), swirl in whatever creamy, thick confection that tempts, such as caramel or chocolate sauce.

Yield: 1 Quart

How to make Taiwanese ZhongZi (or ZongZi) 粽子

Today is the 5th day of the 5th lunar month in Chinese calendar, aka The Dragon Boat Festival (Duanwu Festival 端午节 in Chinese). I hardly look at the lunar calendar but only know when it’s coming when T&T starts selling 粽子 (ZongZi or ZhongZi), lychee is in season or when Grandma starts making zhongi. I asked her to teach me how to make it this year, and she was glad to pass down the tradition to me. It’s actually quite easy, but the preparation process is complex and the wrapping needs to be practiced.

What this is great for, is getting friends and family together to make it and eat together – and that’s what it’s really about.

粽子 / ZhongZi / ZongZi Recipe

(courtesy of and featuring my Grandma)

Ingredients:

If you are comfortable with cooking and experimenting, discard all my measurements (as usual), but use it as a reference.

• 1.3 lbs sticky rice
• bamboo leaves as needed (and string)
• 1/6lb peanuts (optional, as much as you like)
• 0.65oz dried miniature shrimp
• 0.65oz dried chinese mushrooms
• 1/2lbs pork (fatty, belly, whatever… chunked)
• fried shallots as needed
• 2 tbsp light soy sauce (or more to taste)
• 1 tsp rice wine (or to taste)
• 1/2 tsp sugar (or brown sugar syrup. DO NOT use Taiwanese black sugar)
• salt, white pepper, to taste
• Optional: Salted duck egg, chestnuts, dried minced daikon radish.
• Serve with: sweet chili sauce or sweet soy sauce.

Preparation:

• Soak overnight: peanuts, dried chinese mushrooms, dried miniature shrimp
• Wash bamboo leaves thoroughly and till pliable. Remove stems and leave in bowl with some water to keep moist but not soak.
• Wash rice thoroughly and rinse 3-4 times. Add 3 tsp of salt and mix. Update: soak for at least half an hour if you are planning to use a pressure cooker, 3 hours to overnight if using a steamer
• Peel cooked salted duck egg. Remove the white and the membrane around the yolk. Toss with a tbsp of rice wine for flavour.

Methods – meat filling:

1. Heat oil in wok. Add pork chunks and stirfry till fragrant. Remove from heat.
2. Add more oil to wok if necessary. Stirfry shrimp and fried shallots, then add mushrooms and stirfry till fragrant. Add peanuts and mix.
3. Add meat, season with soy sauce, rice wine, sugar. Saute rapidly over high heat until boiling (add enough soy and rice wine so that there is some liquid). Reduce heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. ALWAYS TASTE and add more if necessary of any ingredient.

Methods – wrapping:

1. Take 2 leaves, one larger than the other and opposite end to opposite end. Overlap, with the smaller leaf on the top, line the edge of the leaves up but with the smaller leaf a little higher. (You’ll need to watch the video to know what I mean).
2. Fold and form a funnel shape, with the left end longer than the right.
3. Place rice, filling, and more rice as in the video.
4. Fold the bottom over, pinch the sides in and push the rice and filling upwards. Make sure it’s tight or else when it’s cooked the rice will turn into mush. Pinch the top and fold. Secure with cotton string.

Methods – cooking – 2 ways:

1. Boiling in pressure cooker: Put dumplings into pressure cooker and cover with water. Cook until boiling and reduce heat to medium-high. Cook for 20 minutes. Remove and cool. But always test first to see amount of cooking time depending on heat source, pressure cooker etc.
2. Steaming: Bring water in steamer to a boil, and steam over low heat for 1 hour or until done.

Serve with sweet chili sauce or sweet soy paste.

Since everyone’s at Cafe Medina right this moment…

It’s gorgeous today – sunny, cool and blue skies and fluffy clouds as far as the eye can see. What it really is, is perfect brunch weather. Before I even looked outside I knew what it was like, because pretty much every Vancouverite on my twitter feed was heading to Cafe Medina.

I’m not going to post a long review because it’d be redundant. Everyone raves about the waffles, muses over the food, gushes about the coffee and laments about the wait time.

My must eats/drinks:

Lavender Latte - regular lattes will ever taste the same again. Delicate and fragrant, with 49th Parallel as the coffee of choice (Organic Epic Espresso). I’m off to conjure up some lavender syrup (simple syrup infused with lavender buds overnight. Touch of honey?)

Waffles - it’s the Belgian waffles that everyone raves about. Toppings offered:
Dark chocolate, Milk chocolate Lavender, White Chocolate Pistachio Rosewater, Fig Orange Marmalade, Raspberry Caramel, Mixed Berry Compote. If you want the liege waffles at home, head to Patisserie Lebeau where they make it fresh or sell frozen. Available in the frozen section at Meinhardt, Capers, Choices, Urban Fare, Whole Foods. I recreated the fig orange marmalade in a post a few years ago and will be posting a blueberry lavender and a blueberry/limoncello compote recipe soon.

Le Chasseur - A savoury dish of 2 fried eggs, bison sausage, wild boar bacon, braised potato, watercress, roasted tomato, green peppercorn and grilled foccaccia. This was devoured so fast that I didn’t have a chance to take a photo. Perfect for sharing.

UPDATE: Went there for my Lavender Latte fix this morning – another sign that Cafe Medina really cares about it’s food? Besides making their own waffles, they make their own syrup for their coffees. Check out all the vanilla beans in there! Good stuff!

Summer dishes: Yucatan Shrimp

Warmer weather usually means get togethers with family and friends -potlucks, picnics, BBQs – communal cooking and casual dining. One of my fondest childhood memories was the gathering of 3 or 4 families (actual relations, friends, neighbours) to eat shellfish. No bbq, no meats, no fish. Anything with a shell – lobster, crab, shrimp, clams, mussels – that all the men in the family would go early morning to the docks to buy fresh off the boats and the women would clean/devein and boil and serve on large platters, only to be instantly descended upon and devoured. It wasn’t the just the food that brought people together, but the barbaric and natural act of eating without utensils and using your teeth, fingers and the occasional napkin. The communal and raw way of eating shellfish like this transcended sex, age, race and class – and gave way to a sense of bonding.

In honor of the first long (and much anticipated) weekend of the year – I give you Yucatan Shrimp. Happy bonding.

Yucatan Shrimp (wok style)

Variations below

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 large clove garlic, minced (yes, the whole damn thing)
• Juice of two large limes
• 1 tablespoon Indonesian sambal (preferably sambal oelek)
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 pound large, fresh, shell-on shrimp (or prawns, deveined)
• 1 teaspoon jalapeño, seeded and chopped (optional)
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro.

1. In a small saucepan set over low heat, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 2 minutes.

2. Add remaining 3 tablespoons butter to saucepan. When it melts, stir in the lime juice, chili sauce, salt and pepper. Turn off the heat and allow the sauce to rest.

3. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 minutes or until they are just firm and pink. Do not overcook. Drain into a colander and shake over the sink to remove excess moisture.

4. In a large bowl, toss the shrimp and chili sauce. Add jalapeño, if desired, sprinkle with cilantro and toss again. Serves 4, messily. Adapted from Greg Nelson at Doc Ford’s Sanibel Rum Bar and Grille, Sanibel Island, Fla.

Notes: Do not use more butter than needed, or your shrimp will be swimming in oil. Be liberal with the garlic – you can never have too much! Because I didn’t have sambal on hand, I figured since it’s kinda stinky and spicy, I mixed fish sauce and vietnamese chili sauce and threw in some lemongrass paste. If it’s not sweet enough, squirt  in some agave, or use honey if you don’t have it. Sugar is just too 2D sometimes. Serve with beer and lime.

Yucatan Shrimp (BBQ style)

• 2 tablespoons achiote powder (see Note)
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• 1/3 cup fresh orange juice
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 pounds large shelled and deveined shrimp
• 1/2 cup cilantro leaves
• Summer Vegetable Rice and lemons, for serving

1. Light a grill. In a large bowl, blend the achiote, garlic, orange and lemon juices, chile powder, cayenne and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Whisk in the oil. Add the shrimp and toss. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. Thread the shrimp onto six 12-inch skewers. Season with salt; reserve the marinade. Grill the shrimp over a hot fire, basting with the marinade, until barely cooked through, 2 minutes per side. Transfer to plates, sprinkle with the cilantro and serve with Summer Vegetable Rice and lemon wedges. Serves 6.

Notes: Achiote powder is ground from achiote (annatto) seeds. It has no discernible flavor and is used in Latin cooking to give dishes a reddish-orange color. Achiote powder and seeds are available at Latin markets and some supermarkets.

Asparagus Soup

If you didn’t know already, it’s asparagus season! I’m trying to do more with seasonal ingredients (last season it was brussel sprouts) and though I don’t have a Farmer’s Almanac or have a green thumb (far from it, actually, as I managed to kill a cactus once) I take cues from what I see at the local grocers (Young Bros. on West Broadway and Southlands Farm Market, being my faves) and what’s the daily special at fine dineries.

My first taste of asparagus of the season was for Mother’s Day dinner at Province Marinaside, where I had asparagus soup. $9 a bowl? Thanks, but I think I can make it myself. I bought a bunch of asparagus to sub in for haricot verts (aka green beans) in my nicoise salad (recipe to come soon), and couldn’t help but stare at the wasted ends. As you know, you have to bend the asparagus till it snaps, separating the tender bits from the not so tender. But I’m chinese and I hate to waste anything, and I ended up snapping off 1/3 of not so tender bits. So I thought of putting them to good use and pureeing them to make a soup. No one would know, right? Below is the Asparagus Soup from Saveur.com and my tweaks and notes.

Asparagus Soup

SERVES 4 – 6

Asparagus growers usually discard the skinny shoestring asparagus spears, but they are perfect for this preparation.

2 lbs. fresh shoestring asparagus
4 cups Chicken Stock
4 tbsp. butter
4 tbsp. flour
2 cups milk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Prepare asparagus by holding bottom half of each spear with both hands and gently bending it until it snaps where it naturally breaks, separating tough fibrous end from tender part. Discard ends. Drain and cut into pieces.

2. Put asparagus and chicken stock into a medium pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until very soft, 10–15 minutes. Set aside 2 cups of the broth. Working in batches, purée asparagus and remaining broth in the bowl of a food processor or jar of a blender, then return to pot and set aside.

3. Melt butter in a medium-heavy saucepan over low heat. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, for 2 minutes. Whisk in reserved warm broth. Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring, until smooth and thickened, about 5 minutes. Transfer to pot with asparagus purée. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Add milk and return soup to a simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (see note below about salt)

My take:

1) Cut off the tips and reserve. Snap the asparagus to separate tender and not so tender ends. Slice the not so tenders vertically and in quarters. Cut the tender ends into small pieces. When boiling asparagus, put not so tenders in first for a few minutes, then tenders, and let boil till soft. At some point put in the tips to cook, but remove and put in an ice bath after it turns bright green. Reserve for garnishing.

2)Instead of chicken stock, I used the canned chinese chicken broth. Use less if you’re going to go the canned route (less 1/3) and take into account that it’s already salty, so hold off on the salt at the end! You may need to add more milk and cream if it’s too salty!

3) To make it creamier, I added a bit of evaporated milk, but use cream if you have it on hand. Adding more milk would dilute it instead of making it more creamy. Dollop with creme fraiche.

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